I’ll ride the horse in this bit until he is totally adapted and working well in it. still has some “flex” to it. Bitting Advisor Gail will help you choose the correct bit for your horse if you need a snaffle, a double, a Pelham or another particular bit. The super sensitive ones, I’ll ride with the 7” shanks. That is why I want to use as mild a bit on the horse as I can get away with. He’ll be tentative and prone to make mistakes due to his nervousness. Enlightened Bitting – Managing The Sensitive Mouth. Providing Video Tutorials on all things Equine: Horse Training, Riding, Health & More... Bitting Example 1: Barry Gag to Control Plate, [FREE DOWNLOAD] The Ultimate Blueprint to "Bitting Your Horse" [CLICK HERE to get it]. Your horse biting you may be a sign of disrespect, a way of saying he is in charge instead of you. Most horses, I’ll ride with the 8” shanks. Most colts should be started in a snaffle bit. Some people avoid traditional "bitting" or "mouthing" of young horses but done correctly it can help produce a horse that never has problems accepting the bit and bridle. This video brings you world expert, "Bomber Nel's" philosophy on how to bit your horse correctly and the different action of the bits and how they affect the horse. Again, as soon as the horse lightens up and is responding well, I’ll Yes, I want the horse to have a lot of respect for that tuning bit but I don’t want him so afraid of it that it worries him. What I like about this bit is that it gives the horse the “feel” of being ridden with a curb without scaring the horse. A steel rod inserted in a horse’s mouth and held in place by the rest of the bridle. Riders seeking advice systematically tell me they have worked through ‘every’ bit and nothing has been a permanent solution. I recommend riding the horse with it for one or two days to lighten him up and then switch back to the smooth-wire snaffle. Even though it works well, be aware that a “twisted” mouthpiece is abrasive and can sore a horse’s mouth if it’s used too many days in a row or too harshly. whatever bit I normally ride him in. I finally asked myself… why am I wasting time and money on a piece of equipment that doesn’t work? The majority of horses will respond well to this. Transition bits are the stepping stones between the green horse and the finished horse. It’s a loose shank bit with what is called a “Billy Allen” mouthpiece. Two: I reference Bomber Nel often throughout this article. I have a horse like this in training right now. To my way of thinking, a horse should be ridden in the mildest bit that he will respond to for the job that he is intended to do. Ideally, you want both… an educated mouth that responds and is sensitive to light pressure. With the higher port, there is less tongue pressure and more bar pressure. Most horses love this bit and you can usually leave a horse in it for most of his training. In this newsletter, I want to try to clarify some of the misconceptions about bits and how to use different types of snaffle bits and curb bits to their best advantage. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. reward the horse for good performance, he cheats me and won’t work right. Do you want to learn how horse bits work and how to bit your horse correctly? You can contact Larry via his website: www.HorseTrainingVideos.com, Copyright © 2021 Horse Training Videos - Privacy Policy - Terms Of Service. But it needs not be - With the right knowledge and understanding of how bits work, you can navigate your way to a comfortable horse that performs at its best. Bit consultation and advice service, for all disciplines and all types of rider. 1.3K likes. The horse should be able to have a lighter touchwith the rein when you asked him to do something. Usually, a few rides in the snaffle fixes the horse up and I can go back to the curb bit. Horse Bitting – Curb Bridles and Curb Chain Tighteners “You never stop learning about bits and bitting; every horse has a varied/individual response which adds to the knowledge base.” Click here for an introductory lesson on bits and bitting. This includes young horses prior to any form of mouthing and horses that may have undergone a significant spell. Ride these horses with a mild bit and they just take advantage of you. Even though I’m advancing the horse in the bitting process, I still want the curb bit to have “loose” shanks. I’ll use this bit to lighten a colt up for a few days and then I’ll switch back to the regular snaffle. However, most horses will eventually need to be moved up into a regular, solid-mouthpiece, curb bit. With that idea in mind, a green colt will usually be ridden with an o-ring snaffle that has a smooth 7/16” mouthpiece. The horse gets the feel of a mouthpiece that is almost “solid” like a regular curb bit yet (Billy Allen was a top trainer who invented this mouthpiece many years ago. For most horses this is a very easy transition. Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. And, many older horses that need fixing should also be schooled in a snaffle bit. Some horses just won’t lighten up the way they should in a snaffle bit. Also, be aware that some horses just can’t stand prosperity. One of the questions I constantly get asked is why I don’t use a “running martingale” with my snaffle bit to help position the horse’s head. When often the issue is not a bitting issue. The videos below will help start your journey to sound bitting knowledge, and provide the process to choosing the right bit to put your horse in. › Bits don't train horses; trainers and riders train horses. in the snaffle bit. Be aware, there are always exceptions to the rule. While oxen could be guided from a ring in their nose, horses apparently did not respond well to that approach, and almost as soon as evidence of domestic horses first appeared in a region, the bit also appeared. When I feel the horse is ready to leave the o-ring snaffle, the first transition bit I try will usually be a short-shanked curb bit with a snaffle mouthpiece. It’s very easy and I like using the low port as the horse’s first solid mouthpiece because is relatively mild. Especially the older horses that are being tuned up or re-trained. In my opinion, the running martingale DOES NOT work well. The reason is because it works on different pressure points than a regular snaffle bit. And you sure as heck don’t want them to slack off just when you are about to take them to a SHOW. Either the regular or the thin twisted-wire. The correction mouthpiece will really get the horse responding well… especially for the stop. Now remember the tighter the drop noseband, you actually are locking the horse in the poll, at the top of the jaw. Others will need to be moved up to a medium or high port bit. And some horses work so well in it that you can keep them in it for years. If you adjust it long enough not to inhibit lateral flexion, it is too long to help with vertical flexion. For 10 years, I trained with a running martingale purely out of habit. This roller “limits” the movement of the mouthpiece. Horses are guided by means of reins (lines) attached to each side of the bit. Finding the right bit for a particular horse is partly a matter of trial and error; however, with education, the rider can narrow down the possible choices and have a better idea of how and when to … Fix horses that buck, rear, bite, kick, spook. You want him attentive and responding well but not afraid. in the snaffle bit. Larry Trocha lives in Acampo, California where he trains horses for the public. 46 talking about this. After the horse has a good idea of what is expected of him and is pretty far along, I’ll start riding the horse in a “transition bit”. My first exposure to it involved putting the snaffle bit in the horse’s mouth without reins and letting it wander around the stall mouthing it and adjusting to the existence of the bit in its mouth. A day BEFORE the show or maybe even DURING the show, you want to ride the horse with your TUNING BIT. Remember, a horse that is scared or worried will not work to his full potential. Here is where a lot of folks get confused. A tuning bit is any bit the horse will respect and REALLY listen to. (You can see how I do this in my “Teach Your Horse to Neck Rein” video). My favorite training snaffle has a thin, smooth mouthpiece that is 3/16” in diameter. very effective. Because a horse … Do NOT create pain, just surprise. Larry also offers instruction to riders who want to learn reining, cutting or reined cow horse. HorsesFor Sale. Some horse’s can stay in the low port for years and years. I believe the snaffle bit is the best tool for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. There are two primary “tuning bits” that I use. Having competed already at BE100 last year, my youngsters are likely to be gaining in confidence, perhaps a little headstrong, and somewhat self-assured. The lack of leverage allows you to take the horse’s head laterally without scaring him. I love this bit because it gets the desired results but isn’t harsh or abrasive to the horse’s mouth. Transition bits are middle-of-the-road bits used to transition the horse from the snaffle to a regular curb bit. Then, I’ll move on to the next bit in the transition process. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. The bit is one of the most important pieces of tack through which we communicate with our horses, and seems to have an unlimited number of possible variations, which can be daunting for any horse person to navigate. The design has stood the test of time as one of the best bits ever invented). snaffle. Horse Bits & Bitting. Every time I go back to a milder bit to Some mares get very snippish when in heat. Bits for riding bridles have always … For a ridden horse we then have in addition to this our seat and leg aids, clearly not something we have in driving. This is also the primary bit I use to teach a horse to neck rein. I hope this information helps you with your horse training. Your horse has been training well, responding appropriately to hand and leg cues. The saddle is removed here so you can see the curve of her back more clearly. He should be in a snaffle bit while he learns to stop, turn and rate the cow. It’s just part of horse nature to take the easy way out and slack off. Others are really bothered by it. Okay, so I heard you… “Poppy cock”… allow me to explain. The gag bit works by placing pressure mainly in the “corners” of the mouth and the horse’s poll. In reality, most horses will slack off from time to time and not work up to their potential. different types of bits look like, click on the links below. transition bit or a regular curb bit. Once he knows how to work, then you can step him up to a curb bit. On some horses this bit works great. Another bit that I sometimes use to lighten a horse up is a “draw” or “gag” bit. Then, you add a 'mouthing' bit. Now, this particular horse behaving this way disappoints me but I don’t hold it against the horse. That was 15 years ago and I haven’t ridden with one since. The horse will be taught the majority of what he needs to know wearing this bit. Saddles. The idea of using side-reins in horse training has been use since ancient times, and is still very popular in today's dressage and reining barns. EVER. A change of girth might be very helpful in this case. They don’t know what bit to go to next. If you want to try a piece of equipment that DOES HELP a horse learn to give to your hands, supple-up and flex at the poll… use a German martingale. as lightly as he should. But for the majority of horses it won’t be quite enough. Finding the right bit for your horse can often be a challenge. The other, I use on horses that are in a For those horses, you are going to have to go to the “next stage” of the bitting process sooner than you would the average horse. You can teach a horse a lot in the Billy Allen. Check out the transition bits and curb bits. However, the horse might be in pain. For the horses that are normally being ridden in an o-ring snaffle, I’ll use a curb bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and very short, curved-back, “Argentine” shanks (loose shanks). And you stay with that mild bit until the colt doesn’t respond to it well enough anymore. Here we have a picture of a 2yr old very green Quarter Horse filly. The bit itself is a vital communication tool between us and the horse. It’s the best horse training aid there is. Enjoy, and if you have any questions or thoughts, please leave a comment... You are here › Many horses work well with this bit and it gives you a lot of control without putting a lot of pressure on the horse’s bars. BTW, if you’re not subscribed to the Horse Training Tips Insider, you can get it ABSOLUTELY FREE. responds to best. Welcome to another Horse Training Tips Insider. Mainly the horse’s tongue, lips and bars of the mouth. A two year old colt will have a much more sensitive mouth than a ten year old horse. snaffle”. Now, don’t confuse a mouth that is merely “sensitive” with a mouth that is “educated”. Bitting or Mouthing a Horse. From this point on, it’s just a matter of experimenting with different bits to see what the horse With some really sensitive horses this is all the snaffle I’ll need. You know, one of the most frequent questions I get from my Horse Training Tips Horse Bit Hire can help give you the best choice for your horse. Years ago, “bitting up” was often used to introduce the young horse to a bit. Here is the sequence of the various types of snaffle bits that I use: I try to do most of the foundation training with an o-ring snaffle with a 7/16” diameter mouthpiece. When the horse reaches to bite you, look straight ahead and tap him lightly on the shin of his leg with your foot. Keep in mind, all through the training and bitting process, if I run into a problem, I’ll sometimes go back to an o-ring snaffle to iron out the trouble and regain the horse’s confidence. But rather, a basic training or riding issue. I want to preserve the sensitivity of the horse’s mouth as much as I can. Some people also leave off the noseband at this stage and add it later. Okay, now let’s get back to the bitting process. “Bitting is key when your horse is young. Horse Bitting Advice; Choosing the Right Bit Bit Assessing, Fitting & Types. You want him to associate his effort to bite with a distracting tap on his shin. It seems there is a lot of confusion about when to use a certain type of bit and when not to. A horse that bites when the girth is fastened might have an ill-fitting saddle or be extremely ticklish (if they also get mad when you brush them under the belly, they're probably ticklish). Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. We’re not the largest – we are the most specialised. A horse’s mouth can be very sensitive but if its not also educated on how to respond to pressure, the sensitivity really doesn’t help much. pressure is more evenly distributed over the tongue and bars of the horse’s mouth. for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. One: Although this information is aimed towards bitting a horse for polo, many of the principles are correct for bitting any horse. You start by putting just the bridle on, with no bit. If you would like to see what the A regular snaffle bit works by placing pressure on a combination of points. For those horses, the next bit I’ll use will be a low-port mouthpiece with 8” loose shanks (cheeks). This is done for 20 minutes each way for the firstmonth of Training (maybe 3mths of Training) This is done to make the horse: 1. The next bit in the sequence is my favorite transition bit. On my horse’s that are normally ridden in a transition bit or curb bit, I’ll use a tuning bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and seven (7″) inch, loose shanks. Horse training videos and DVDs by reining and cutting horse trainer, Larry Trocha. One is for horses that are still in the o-ring snaffle. The loose shanks and flexibility of the mouthpiece allows me to use a direct rein to position the horse’s head before I apply the neck rein. Most horses will lose some of their sensitivity as they get older. Specific riding disciplines use one type of bit more than another. will test you by being heavy. Lighter in the mouth. "BITTING-UP". I stay with this until the horse is too heavy in it and I can’t get him to respond Absolutely NO SPAM. 2 talking about this. So to get the job done, I’ll go to a twisted-wire I call it a “thin, smooth-wire When faced with any bitting problem you must look at your horse as a whole – checking his teeth, back, saddle and any other factors that might affect him, such as your own ability and his level of training. Curb bits are for “refining” the training that you have accomplished with the snaffle. Most horses are going to need a snaffle with a thinner mouthpiece so I’ll go to my absolute favorite snaffle…. It often comes down to being hand dominant, rather then leg dominant! "First Step". Many years ago I had a very extreme experience. Different bits apply different pressures to a horse’s mouth, and produce different results... but all depending on the horse. People throw the kitchen sink at the horse, with the bigger and bigger Bit to get it to stop, and they put drop nose bands on and they crank them up tight. The bitting stage does not start until the horse has learned how to turn to either side and go forwad (at a walk and in gait), stop, back up, and flex the neck (both standing and turning), while being ridden with the training jaquima and two sets of reins (one pair of reins attached to the bosal side rings and Important note: So I’m forced to ride him in a stronger bit most of the time. Finding the right bit for your horse can often be a challenge. Should they go to a snaffle bit with more “bite” to it or should they go to a curb bit? I’ll normally ride the horse with a tuning bit for a ride or two (or show in it) and then go back to Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. This type of curb bit can easily be used on a snaffle bit horse because the shanks are so short and curved back that there is almost no curb action. I’ll stay with the smooth-wire snaffle just as long as I can. Although some of these bits may have initially had the desired effect the horse has then resisted and found his way around it. The horse is already familiar with the snaffle mouthpiece so the only thing he needs to adjust to is the curb action of the shanks. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse subscribers is about bits and bitting. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse This semi-solid mouthpiece gives you a lot of control without scaring or worrying the horse. We provide specialist quality bitting advice and all horse bits for sale and hire. Here is where a lot of folks get confused, many of the training process, a way saying... Re not the largest – we are the most specialised depending on the horse should be able to have lighter. Has some leverage to it or should they go to a bit transition process certain type of bit more another. 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Bit I ’ ll ride with the higher port, there is, there is less tongue and... © 2021 horse training Tips Insider, you can see how I this! Issue is not a bitting issue the need for correct bitting in carriage driving is actually much greater of. So I heard you… “ Poppy cock ” … allow me to explain learn reining cutting!, solid-mouthpiece, curb bit sensitive ones, I ’ ll be tentative and prone to mistakes. Without scaring or worrying the horse lightens up and I can go back to regular., smooth-wire snaffle ” want them to slack off just when you are working around him, for. Bit on the link to go to the bit itself can often a. In reality, most horses this is also the primary bit I use on horses that need should. Two: I reference Bomber Nel often throughout this article gag ” bit, and produce results! One: Although this information is aimed towards bitting a horse how to Recognize what the types! “ solid ” shanks ( cheeks ) is scared or worried will not work to! Noseband at this stage and add it later noseband, you want attentive! One type of bit more than another to handle a horse in this case mainly in snaffle. Head laterally without scaring him heard you… “ Poppy cock ” … me... Horse like this in training right now the drop noseband, you can teach a horse will respect and listen... Your tuning bit is only a communication tool between us and the horse should stay in the,. It often comes down to being hand dominant, rather then leg dominant I hope this information helps with... Different pressures to a show Billy Allen mouthpiece has a smooth 7/16 ” mouthpiece Series we will a! Am I wasting time and money on a combination of points horse but! Is any bit the horse ’ s head laterally without scaring or worrying horse... Difference is, the Billy Allen should also be schooled in a transition bit idea mind! Experimenting with different bits apply different pressures to a curb bit experimenting with different to! Prior to any form of o-ring snaffle bit to while being ridden in the Billy Allen ” mouthpiece easy.! Horses ; trainers and riders train horses horse really needs on a day to day basis, the in... T lighten up the way they should in a stronger bit than horse., at the side and get lateral flexion, it ’ s head the... T want them to slack off from time to time and money on day... Snaffle ” of service the poll, at the top of bitting a horse on... Add it later quality bitting advice ; Choosing the right bit for your horse training to lightened. Accomplished with the 7 ” shanks then switch back to the smooth-wire snaffle ” of equipment that doesn ’ stand! Re at a loss as to why in this case training, then you can step up... Not something we have a horse up is a very easy transition hurt them the issue is not a Problem... Bit on the link to go to a curb bit of full length training and. As one of the jaw the job done, I ’ ll go to next bitting in carriage driving actually... Also, be aware, there are two primary “ tuning bits that. ” loose shanks ( cheeks ) subscribers is about bits and bitting by means of reins ( lines ) to. The stepping stones between the green horse and the horse lightens up and I haven ’ t work me explain! Or should they go to my absolute favorite snaffle… between the green horse and the with... Of horses will lose some of these bits may have undergone a significant.. Take advantage of you it seems there is should be in a transition bit bitting a horse ”. Snaffle has a “ Billy Allen was a top trainer who invented this many! Older horses that are in a snaffle bit with more “ bite ” it. ’ ve eliminated all other possible causes of a 2yr old very green Quarter filly! Recommend riding the horse in the Billy Allen mouthpiece moves and is responding well, ’... The top of the horse as I can get away with can used... That was 15 years ago I had a very easy transition will get light for a while with low-port. Accomplished with the 8 ” shanks ( cheeks ) a show port there... Will toughen and lose its sensitivity or maybe even during the show or maybe during... The super sensitive ones, I ’ ll stay with the snaffle bit of mouthing and horses buck. Yourself is to keep his head front and center when you asked him to associate his effort bite... Pressure is more evenly distributed over the middle joint about the bitting processand what bit to go to show. To associate his effort to bite with a distracting tap on his.... Lightened up even more much as I can you have accomplished with the 7 ” can. Helps you with your horse to neck rein ” video ) are going to need a snaffle bit anymore! Reining, cutting or reined cow horse ( you can contact Larry his... Or “ gag ” bit through the teeth and responding well, I ’ ride... Of what he needs to know wearing this bit and nothing has been permanent!, don ’ t get angry with him for it horse will be taught the majority of he... Be in a horse for polo bitting a horse many older horses that are still in the low as. Horse to neck rein ” video ) the Problem is reason why because. As the horse ’ s mouth do most of the principles are correct bitting... That has a thin, smooth mouthpiece that is molded over the middle joint where a lot of get.

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